Suffering From Dry, Stinging Skin Or Constant Breakouts? A Doctor Reveals The Often Overlooked Reason Why Skin Flares Up

says you need to focus on your skin barrier – maintaining and repairing it to help your skin reach a good condition.

‘Your skin barrier is the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum,’ says Adebibe. ‘I often describe it as a brick wall, with the skin cells as the bricks and lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids as the mortar. Its primary role is to keep essential moisture in and harmful aggressors like bacteria, pollution and irritants out. When the barrier is functioning well, skin looks smooth, plump and radiant. When it is compromised, you are likely to experience dryness, sensitivity, inflammation, breakouts and uneven tone.’

You magazine’s beauty director Rosie Green agrees. She describes the skin as ‘a delicate eco-system’ and says that if you overdo products on the face it can ‘make the skin barrier permeable. It upsets the balance and makes you prone to infection and dehydration,’ she says.

So how can you keep your skin barrier happy, and spots signs of damage when they arise? Here Adebibe answers our main questions about the skin barrier…

What causes problems with your skin barrier?

In winter cold air, indoor heating, hot showers, harsh cleansers, and repeated temperature changes all strip natural oils, physically stressing the barrier. Trying to “fix” dry skin with chemical exfoliation or continuing strong actives often backfires. The focus in winter should be repair, not acceleration.

Over-exfoliation is one of the biggest culprits I see clinically, such as using too many acids, scrubs or devices too frequently. Harsh cleansers, excessive alcohol-based products, environmental stressors such as UV exposure and pollution, and chronic stress can all weaken the barrier. Lifestyle factors such as poor sleep and dehydration also play a role.

Are active ingredients like retinoids always bad for the skin barrier?

Actives like retinoids are not inherently bad. When used correctly, they are very effective. The problem arises with misuse, such as starting too strong, layering too many actives at once, or not supporting the skin with adequate moisturisation. I am concerned about trends that promote the idea that is better, such as aggressive multi-acid routines, daily exfoliation, or stripping the skin in pursuit of a squeaky-clean feeling. Skincare should be strategic and supportive rather than punishing.

One major misconception is that tight or tingly skin means products are working. In reality, this is often a sign of irritation or barrier damage. I also wish people understood that healthy skin does not come from constant exfoliation or chasing every new trend. A strong skin barrier is the foundation of all good skincare. When you protect it, everything else works better.

What signs suggest the skin barrier needs repair?

Common signs include persistent dryness, stinging or burning when applying products, redness, flaking, increased breakouts and makeup sitting poorly on the skin. To repair the barrier, I recommend reducing active treatments, using a gentle cleanser, applying a barrier-repair moisturiser rich in ceramides and lipids, and being diligent with sunscreen. Think of it as skin rehabilitation with less intervention and support.

Dr Miriam’s minimalist barrier-friendly routine for when your skin has become compromised

AM:Gentle cleanser or just water + moisturiser with SPF

PM:Gentle cleanser + hydrating serum + active (2 nights/week) + rich moisturiser

How can you keep your skin barrier healthy?

Consistency and simplicity are key. Gentle cleansing, regular moisturising and daily sun protection go a long way. It is also important to avoid over-cleansing and to give your skin time to adapt when introducing new products.

Not every ‘barrier repair’ product lives up to the hype. Seek out:

Niacinamide – reduces inflammation

Ceramides – rebuild the “mortar” between skin cells

Humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea) – pull water into skin

Occlusives (shea butter, petrolatum, squalane) – lock moisture in

Does the skin barrier worsen with age?

Yes, barrier function naturally declines with age. The skin produces fewer lipids, cell turnover slows and moisture retention decreases. This can lead to increased dryness, sensitivity and a duller appearance. Prioritising hydration, lipid-rich moisturisers and sun protection becomes even important as we get older.