Just as any great artist intimately knows their body of work, seasoned chefs often possess a keen memory of the dishes they’ve created — recipes that bear their unique culinary fingerprint even years after their conception. Such is the case with renowned chef Marcus Samuelsson.

In November 2006, Food & Wine featured the then-rising culinary star alongside Thelma Golden, the esteemed director and chief curator of the Studio Museum in Harlem. Together, they hosted a dinner party where the menu showcased a standout recipe: Gingery Creamed Kale and Cabbage.

At that point in his career, Samuelsson had already earned a three-star review from the New York Times as the executive chef of Aquavit, the acclaimed Nordic restaurant in New York City. While accolades and fine dining were already part of his story, the chef was setting his sights on a new chapter — one rooted in nostalgic food and cultural celebration. He was preparing to open Red Roostera restaurant that would reflect the flavors, stories, and soul of Harlem while paying homage to the deep roots of American and African American cuisine.

When asked years later whether he remembered the F&W article, Samuelsson paused momentarily, unsure. But the instant the recipe was mentioned, his memory sparked with clarity. He didn’t just recall the dish, but the exact moment it was born. “That was 2006, and I was prepping for Red Rooster,” he explained. “I knew I needed to have a recipe for collard greens, but I didn’t grow up eating them, so I used kale. I included cabbage, too, which speaks to my Swedish background.”

That early version of the creamy greens, infused with zesty ginger and golden turmeric, would set the tone for what was to come. Red Rooster’s menu, rich in stories and flavors, would go on to feature similar dishes that bridged Samuelsson’s Ethiopian heritage, his Swedish upbringing, and the culinary traditions of Harlem into one unique narrative.

Nearly two decades later, Samuelsson’s evolution as a chef is undeniable. His influence now spans the globe, with 15 restaurants across four countries, from Marcus Addis in Ethiopia to the newly launched Marcus DC in Washington, D.C. But his impact goes beyond just food. Through his mentorship of rising stars like Top chef winner Tristen Epps and James Beard Award nominee Fariyal Abdullahi, as well as his newly launched Rise Residency programSamuelsson is empowering the next generation of culinary professionals. The initiative offers participants two paid weeks at Denniston Hill, an artists’ residency in upstate New York, providing them time dedicated to reflection and experimentation and helping to cultivate dialogue around food and culture.

Tinfoil Swans

“Early in my career, other people saw something in me way before I saw it in myself, and they gave me a chance,” says Samuelsson. “Now, as an established chef, I want to be part of how we improve the space for (emerging) chefs.” As the culinary world has shiftedbecoming more inclusive and global, Samuelsson has embraced those changes and incorporated them into his work. “Diners are much more diverse today, and food is more flavor-forward. Things like berbere that I rarely used in the early 2000s I’m now highlighting on my menus.”

This changing landscape has even inspired Samuelsson to revisit that original kale and cabbage dish. “I would probably replace the cream with coconut milk because I’ve learned more about Ethiopian cooking.” In his updated version, buttermilk still adds a pleasant tang to the dish, but he likes to imagine what would happen if niter kibbeh — a spiced, clarified butter with layers of richness and umami that’s integral to Ethiopian cuisine — stepped in. Changes like these aren’t just flavor enhancements, but a symbol of how far his culinary journey has come, Samuelsson says. “When I read a recipe from my past like this, I see just how my own cooking has evolved.”