Röstis, latkes, hash browns… whatever you call them, I think it’s safe to say that grated potato sautéed in butter is a contender for the world’s greatest comfort food.

The classic rösti is a Swiss dish said to have originated in the 16th century as a hearty breakfast food for farmers. There is no single master recipe as such, and a variety of methods can produce a good rösti, which should be golden and crisp outside and soft and yielding within. Some recipes parboil the whole, unpeeled potatoes before grating them, a method I like because the cooked potato becomes starchy and holds together well. Others grate the raw potato and wring out the excess liquid before frying. Grated onion may be added too, and both floury and waxy potatoes will work.

In this week’s recipe, I combine regular and sweet potatoes, spring onion and grated halloumi for an untraditional but exceptionally tasty rösti to top with poached eggs, smoked salmon or even a smoked sausage. The only non-negotiable is a good nonstick pan, otherwise it is likely to adhere during cooking.

METHOD

Coarsely grate the unpeeled white potatoes,place in a sieve and toss with ½ tsp salt. Set aside while you grate the sweet potatoes (unpeeled, ideally) and halloumi into a mixing bowl, and add the finely sliced spring onions.

Tip the grated white potato into a clean tea towelor a double layer of kitchen towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Add to the mixing bowl with the other ingredients, plus a grind of black pepper, and toss together.

Heat 1 tbsp oil anda knob of butter over a medium heatin a nonstick frying pan (about 25cm in diameter). Add the rösti mixture, pressing it down with a wooden spoon, and cook for 10 minutes.

Invert the rösti on to a plate.Add another glug of oil to the pan, then slide the rösti back in and cook on the other side for 10 minutes.

Slide it on to a chopping boardand cool for 5 minutes before slicing.

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THE CANNY COOK: Potato and halloumi rösti