t’s that time of year again when Champagne corks are flying and we all face at least one awful party-season hangover. Or do we? Growing teetotalism and Gen Z’s sober-curious habits (they drink 20% less than millennials did at the same age) have aided a boom in non-alcoholic beverages – even wine. Forecasts suggest an 11% annual rise in consumption, with the market reaching £3.9 billion by 2033.

But can low and no-alcohol wine pass for the real deal? We challenged six YOU staffers to a blind-taste test, pitting popular vinos against virtuous counterparts, all picked for us by Charlotte Kristensen, our drinks editor. Let’s just say, we expected the fakes to put up a bit of a fight…

WHITE

Wednesday’s Domaine Piquant (0%), £14.99 v Villemarin Picpoul de Pinet (12.5%), £11.25

All six testers identified the zero wine. It was described as ‘bland’ and ‘like grape juice that’s gone off’. Opinions varied on the alcoholic wine too: like ‘cheap pub wine’ said one; ‘a good palate hit’ remarked another, ‘that would taste great with Twiglets’.

SPARKLING

Noughty Dealcoholized Sparkling Chardonnay (0%), £9.50 v Maison Antech Mademoiselle Marguerite Blanquette de Limoux Brut (14%), £14

Everyone knew Noughty was a zero, with ‘no depth or dry appeal’. ‘Is this Appletiser?’ asked one tester. The Brut was far better: ‘refreshing’, with ‘lots of bubbles’.

RED

Codorníu Still Red (8%), £7 v La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo (14%), £11

‘Tastes like squash’ said one reviewer of the lower-alcohol red, which fooled nobody. That said, several tasters didn’t think the 14% was very alcoholic (even though it was one of the booziest in the test). ‘Supremely drinkable’ was the verdict on the latter.

ROSÉ

Torres Natureo Rosé (0%), £6.20 v Torres Viña Sol Rosé (11%), £9.25

Our resident Parisian thought both wines were 0% and did not hold back on her disgust. The rest recognised the 11% had booze in it, but opinion was divided between a reviewer for whom the real rosé tasted ‘like Vimto’ and another who knew it as his regular Waitrose purchase.

SPARKLING ROSÉ

Kylie Minogue Sparkling Rosé Alcohol Free (0%), £6 v Tesco Finest Prosecco Rosé Brut (11%), £8.25

Not even Kylie could save herself. ‘Is this for a kids’ birthday? It’s very bubble-bathy and cloying,’ said one taster. The prosecco, identified by all as boozy, was of a success; one taster said that they would ‘happily drink it all evening’.

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