Large pores are one of the most common (and misunderstood) skin complaints. And it’s easy to see why: they make your skin tone seem uneven while often mimicking the appearance of blackheads.

Though it can feel like they suddenly ‘open up’ overnight, the truth is pores don’t actually open or close – they simply become more visible due to a mix of genetics, oil production, and how well we look after our skin. With careful, considered treatment, you can decrease their visibility which will lead to a smoother, brighter complexion.

So what exactly is the best way to go about this? We asked three leading aesthetic doctors – Dr Richard Devine (founder of Devine Clinic), Dr Galyna Selezneva (founder of Dr Galyna Clinic), and Dr Alia Ahmed (aesthetic doctor at Harley Street Dermal) – to break down the science, myths and treatments that actually work. Keep reading to find out how to tighten your pores – for good.

What exactly is a pore and what determines its size?

Pores are tiny openings in the skin’s surface that act as passageways for oil and sweat, Dr Devine says. Each one houses a hair follicle and a sebaceous gland that produces sebum to keep skin soft and hydrated.

Genetics play a major role in how visible your pores are, but it’s not the whole story. People with thicker, oilier skin often have visibly larger pores, while those with drier or finer skin textures tend to have smaller ones.

Environmental factors such as humidity and pollution, as well as skincare habits, can also affect pore visibility. For instance, if you don’t cleanse thoroughly or you use comedogenic make-up, oil and debris build and expand the pore over time.

What makes pores appear more noticeable?

The real issue with pores isn’t their size – it’s that unattractive, dark appearance they take on which mimics blackheads. This is a result of them becoming clogged or stretched, Dr Devine advises. Oil, dead cells and leftover make-up can fill and darken the pore opening, giving a shadowed effect that looks like spotty skin.

As with many common skin complaints, ageing also plays a role. As collagen and elastin break down, the skin loses some of its tightness, Dr Devine says, and pores can start to appear more open. Sun damage also accelerates this process, weakening the surrounding tissue and making the texture less smooth overall.

How do hormones influence pore size?

Hormones directly affect oil production, Dr Devine says, which is why pore size often fluctuates with life stages. During puberty, increased androgens ramp up sebum output, leading to more noticeable pores and acne.

Later in life, declining oestrogen during menopause causes a loss of elasticity and firmness – so pores can look larger even if oil levels drop. Period-related hormonal changes can cause temporary oil surges, too, which explains why some people find their skin looks shinier – and their pores appear larger – mid-cycle.

Which skincare ingredients help minimise the appearance of pores?

According to Dr Selezneva, the star ingredient you should be looking for is niacinamide. Also known as vitamin B3, it’s an active chemical compound that regulates oil production and strengthens the skin barrier, making pores appear smaller over time.

Salicylic acid is also a good ingredient to look out for: it’s a beta-hydroxy acid that penetrates inside the pore, dissolving oil and dead cells to keep them clear (unblocked pores = less visible ones).

Retinol and retinoids, meanwhile, boost cell turnover and collagen, which firms the pore walls and improves texture.

Are there particular ingredients to avoid when tackling visible pores?

Just as important are the ingredients you need to dodge to avoid exaggerating the appearance of large pores. Anything too rich or occlusive will quickly make matters worse, Dr Selezneva advises. Coconut oil and mineral oil are two popular ingredients that often sit on the surface of your skin, trapping bacteria and sebum.

Heavy silicones – often present in thick foundations or ‘grippy’ primers – may temporarily blur pores, but they also cause congestion when regularly used and not properly removed.

And while alcohol-based toners might give a temporary ‘tight’ feeling, they’re guilty of drying the skin. This leads to ‘rebound’ oiliness – basically your skin trying to moisturise itself – that over time will be counterproductive and actually enlarge pores.

Do ‘pore-tightening’ primers or masks actually help?

Those cheap strips you see promising to close your pores on the high street? Unsurprisingly, they’re not going to do much long-term good. Pore strips work by physically pulling out debris – mainly sebum plugs, dead skin cells and fine hairs – from the surface of your pores.

While that can give a temporary ‘clean’ look, it’s a very aggressive mechanical action that can loosen the pore’s rim, giving it a more ‘open’ appearance, and trigger excess oil production that increases blockages.

According to Dr Ahmed, you also need to be realistic about what to expect from ‘miracle’ masks and primers. They’re more of a momentary fix, he says, using silicone to gently fill uneven texture, or mattifying ingredients such as talc or silica to reduce shine, so pores appear smaller on the surface. These are great for prepping your skin so your make-up sits better, but won’t trigger long-term change.

To truly refine pores, you need ingredients and treatments that boost cell turnover and collagen such as retinoids, AHAs or BHAs and professional microneedling.

How effective are in-clinic treatments?

If you’re really concerned about your skin’s texture, in-clinic treatments are extremely effective when properly tailored to your skin.

Microneedling (from around £200) stimulates collagen and elastin to strengthen the skin around the pores, and can be a great option for those with mature skin.

Treatments such as Sylfirm X (from around £350) go one step further, combining radiofrequency with microneedling to deliver energy precisely where it’s needed, tightening and remodelling the skin from within.

How quickly can someone expect to see improvement in the appearance of pores?

Refining pores takes patience, Dr Ahmed advises. With the right medical-grade ingredients, such as retinoids and chemical exfoliants like AHA or BHA instead of physical scrubs that can irritate, you will usually notice smoother skin texture and fewer visible pores within four to six weeks.

For deeper change, like boosting collagen in the pore walls through microneedling or laser resurfacing, expect steady progress over several months. It’s a long game, but the results are healthier skin and a visibly tighter complexion.