The hotelConsidered the birthplace of flamenco by many, Triana is a traditional bohemian neighbourhood with a local, lived-in atmosphere than the busier areas of Seville loved by tourists. Daily life carries on around you. Hotel Zenit, for example, is next to a primary school, but panic not – the property is peaceful, with modern interiors and cheerful staff. Best of all, in a city that sees sunshine for most of the year, you can enjoy a dip in its rooftop pool with its shady adjoining bar area. (From £78 a night, sevilla.zenithoteles.com.)

The marketThe Triana market has commanded its riverside site since 1823, and remains as delightfully noisy, vibrant and communal as it has been for two centuries. Be led by your nose as you potter past deliciously scented, freshly baked pastries, colourful cartons of earthy-smelling vegetables, and aromas from restaurants serving cheesy, meaty treats. Pull up a bar stool at Gastrobar La Encina to snack on croquettes (£6.50) and Spanish omelette (£7.80), and be warned: most lunch spots close at 3pm, so no latecomers!

The lunchAcross the Guadalquivir river from Triana is Doña Emilia, with its terrace on the busy Paseo de Colón, ideal for people-watching. The restaurant is named after the matriarch of the Mayo family, owners of several local-favourite spots in Seville (manolomayo.com), and the menu focuses on tapas crafted from seasonal local produce. Highlights include prawns cooked in hot garlic olive oil, tomato soup with prawns and poached egg (below) and a comforting salt cod gratin – dishes from £6. The wine list has plenty by the glass.

The palaceOn a previous visit to Seville’s Real Alcázar, I saw green-fingered guru Monty Don wave his hands in the air with excitement as he showed a friend round the palmy gardens. If that isn’t a testament to how beautiful this place is, I don’t know what is. The mix of Christian and Mudéjar architecture in this complex of palaces is showstopping, too. Built as a fort in 913 CE, it’s had a rich history, culminating in its recent appearance as aGame of Thronesbackdrop. And there are peacocks! (Entry £12, alcazarsevilla.org.)

The ice creamOK, we’re not in Italy – but when you’re in a Southern European country like Spain, a gelato break is still non-negotiable. There are four Mito gelaterias (gelateriamito.com) across the city, run by Florentine master ice cream maker Giuseppe Di Bella. First thing you’ll spot is the queue – even in low season – but don’t be put off; it moves fast, and the reward is amazing gelato in over 20 flavours including (my top picks) dark chocolate, pistachio and salted caramel. Why not treat yourself to all three for just £3.90?

The refugeThe Park of María Luisa was once part of the Palacio de San Telmo gardens, gifted to Seville in 1893 and transformed for the 1929 Ibero-American Exhibition. Blending formal design with an Andalusian romanticism – shaded paths, tiled benches, lily ponds – it is a peaceful place to meander, enjoying birdsong, orange trees and the soundtrack of running water. Key spots include Jardín de los Leones, where stone lions guard a water basin; also, most strikingly, Plaza de América, framed by pavilions.