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Next week marks the return of Beaujolais Nouveau, that yearly excuse to raise a glass (or three) to the new wines from Beaujolais: a celebration dating from the 1970s, and a friendly race to rush the first bottles from France to London. But there’s to it than youthful Nouveau. My selection highlights Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages with depth, plus crus Fleurie and Morgon, with their complexity and verve.

Light and silky, perfumed with lilac, violet and red cherry – this graceful Fleurie is perfect served lightly chilled, even alongside fish dishes such as roast salmon or tuna niçoise.

Bright and juicy, with redcurrant and cherry fruit, this is an easy drinking, good-value Beaujolais full of freshness and charm – an ideal pour for midweek.

From the cru village of Morgon, this expressive red layers forest berries with an earthy undertone – ideal for dishes like roast duck.

With raspberry, blackberry and a touch of spice, this refined, vibrant wine is my perfect pick to go with charcuterie and a cheese board.

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