Mascara users around the globe will all understand the pain of applying the product perfectly one day and being left with a clumpy, black mess the next.

While it might seem like a fault with the product, technique, or a mere coincidence, the changing appearance of mascara is often due to the little-known eyelash cycle.

Unlike the hair on our heads, each individual eyelash hair undergoes a three-stage growth cycle, and each stage can give lashes a varying appearance, from thick and voluptuous to fine and uneven.

Explaining the cycle, which takes between four and 11 months depending on the person, UK-based Fresha Beauty expert Annabelle Taurua said: ‘Everyone’s eyelashes go through a three-stage natural growth cycle.

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‘The growth stage, where lashes grow to their full length, the transition stage, where lashes stop growing but aren’t ready to shed quite yet, and the rest and renewal stage, where your lashes are preparing to shed, starting the growth cycle again.’

The growth phase, known as the Anagen, typically lasts around four to six weeks, and gives lashes a longer appearance.

Given that lashes are growing to their full length, their appearance during this time can often become favourable.

Next is the transition period, also known as the Catagen phase, when lashes appear strong and have stopped growing but are not yet shedding, which can last anywhere between two to three weeks.

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The final stage is the Telogen phase. During this time, hair is no longer growing and is preparing to shed, which can take up to three or four months, according to UK Lash. Eyelashes in this stage appear strong but are not at their fullest length.

Taurua continued: ‘This continuous growth cycle means that your lashes are always in different stages of growth, causing variations in length and fullness of each individual lash, which can impact your mascara application and the overall look of your makeup.

‘For example, a mixture of shorter growth stage lashes and longer rest and renewal stage lashes could give an uneven appearance that mascara might give away clearly once applied.

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‘On the other side of the growth spectrum, lashes in the rest and renewal stage are weaker and ready to shed, and mascara application to these lashes may fade faster or even cause premature shedding.’

‘Without proper care, your makeup habits can impact the overall health of your lashes. Applying waterproof or heavy mascara can cause damage, breakage, and premature shedding, especially when combined with harsh makeup removers on delicate lashes that are in the earlier stages of growth.

‘If you notice your mascara application can be “hit and miss”, it might not be your makeup technique that is at fault.

‘Instead, it’s important to consider how your lashes are affected at all three stages of the growth cycle.’

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She concluded: ‘Remember that proper mascara application and gentle eye makeup removal are vital when it comes to maintaining healthy, long and full lashes.’

Given that lashes can vary in appearance depending on the growth phase, people are increasingly turning to lash serums, which promise longer, fuller lashes.

While many women around the globe have flocked to purchase lash serums, often promoted by beauty influencers, health experts have warned against their potentially harmful side effects.

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Concern has surfaced as some of the products contain powerful pharmaceutical drugs that could cause burning, irritation, and even permanently change a person’s eye colour from blue to brown.

A shocking investigation carried out by government officials revealed that almost one in four lash serums sold in the UK contain harmful PGAs, which can cause skin darkening and irritation within just a few weeks of use.

In the US, the FDA has previously issued urgent warnings stating that any cosmetic product containing these potentially harmful ingredients under growth claims should be treated as a drug and not a beauty product.

Experts are now sounding the alarm, stating that consumers may be unaware they are using these powerful ingredients that have been manufactured to mimic prescription-only treatments.

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Even if a product claims to be PGA-free, experts advise checking the ingredient list and staying away from anything ending in -‘prost’ to minimise the risk of redness and irritation.

Instead, they suggest opting for peptide-based alternatives, which work by boosting keratin to support lash growth – though these products are not risk-free, and there is very little evidence to suggest they work effectively.